With age, the number of times our dead skin cells are replaced by new fresh cells reduces. The technical term for this replacement is called exuviation or cellular turnover, and the best way to increase or improve your turnover is through exfoliation. By exfoliating, you give your skin an additional boost to get rid of the old dead cells so that newer ones can take their place. “Exfoliating regularly can stimulate collagen production and improve skin cell turnover, a way to tighter, brighter skin. It even clears out the clogged pores, meaning fewer breakouts. Plus, exfoliation enhances how well your topical skin care products work by improving absorption.
Mechanical exfoliation involves tools, like a brush, sponge, or scrub, to physically remove dead skin cells. Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, uses chemicals, like alpha and beta hydroxy acids, to gently dissolve away dead skin cells. Dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin may prefer mild chemical exfoliator, as mechanical exfoliation may be too irritating for this skin type or potentially tear pores and transfer bacteria. Those with oily, thicker skin may want to use more potent chemical treatments and/or mechanical exfoliation. But when you’re sloughing off dead skin cells with a scrub, or acid peel, you could unknowingly be removing too many skin cells before they’re ready or damage the pH balance and moisture barrier. What's the result? Irritated, red, and inflamed skin. Enter: microexfoliation, which is a safer, gentler approach.
Microexfoliation is a milder version of exfoliation. Instead of using physical scrubs, which consist of granular or beaded scrubs, micro exfoliants use milder enzymes and skincare acids in low percentages. All skin types can do this more often because, unlike physical scrubs, they do not abrase the skin or cause inflammation.”
How do acids and enzymes work?
When it comes to acids, you’ll want to look for mild ones like malic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid, which increase cell turnover by breaking the glue between dead skin cells. They stimulate collagen and glycosaminoglycans, resulting in newer and more healthy skin.
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Enzymatic exfoliants help to break down the keratin in the skin's upper layers to give your fresher, smoother skin. However, enzymatic scrubs don’t work much on the deeper layers of your skin like an acid exfoliant would. My favorite exfoliants contain papain and other fruit enzymes and are always recommended for sensitive skin.
How often should you micro exfoliant?
It is possible to over-exfoliate your skin. When that happens, you’ll see your skin getting dry and feeling sensitive, and it could even get inflamed. “If this happens stop exfoliating immediately and give it a week or two before you get back. I don’t recommend exfoliating daily, even with a micro exfoliant, but I would rather have my clients exfoliate 2-3 times a week.
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